Protecting Your RV's Electrical Systems
RV electrical systems come in a variety of configurations and may be sized differently based upon their intended use. For example, most small to medium sized recreational vehicles incorporate 30 amp circuitry, which is sufficient to operate the rooftop air conditioner and some fairly small appliances. Larger, more elaborate units may be wired for 50 amp service if the vehicle uses multiple rooftop air conditioners or is equipped with a washer/dryer set up.
However, the electrical systems found in most "casual use" RV's share one distinct commonality ... they are ALL wired for 110 volt, single phase power sources. Because the 30 amp three-pin angled and 50 amp four-pin offset plug configurations found on most campers look similar to those on the old dryer outlet at home, many novice RVers assume that these units require 220 volt service. Obviously, this can be an extremely costly mistake, in some cases requiring a complete re-wire of the unit and replacement of some or all of the applicances and systems. Always make certain that your RV is connected to a 110 volt, 30 or 50 amp service as per the manufacturer's specifications. Heavy appliance wiring in the home such as clothes dryers, stoves, etc., are usually wired to a 220 volt service and, though the outlets look similar to the shore line plug on your camper, will seriously damage your systems.
"Why do my breakers keep tripping?"
Another common misconception among inexperienced RVers is the notion that RV electrical systems perform to the same level as those in the home. We field questions ranging from 'Why do my breakers keep tripping?' to 'Why did my shore line plug melt?' on an almost weekly basis. Electrical systems in the home are wired and sized specifically to meet the power needs of the home. The operative word here is "sized". Most home electrical power supply lines are fed by 200 amp or higher panel capability and is expandable as greater load capacity is required. As a result, virtually all appliances in a home environment may be operated simultaneously with little or no interruption of service.
RV systems, on the other hand, are limited to ONLY 30 amps or 50 amps of incoming power. A bit of simple math will reveal the problems that can result from overloading these systems. The following example, which assumes a unit with 30 amps of electrical service and many of the standard appliances demonstrates the underlying causes of these problems.
The13,500 BTU - Roof top Air Conditioner draws around 16.9 amps when the compressor is on. Likewise, the amperage draw on an electric water heater averages 7 - 9 amps, the refrigerator compressor averages 7-10 amps and a 1000 watt microwave draws 8.33 amps. Given that all of these appliances are being used simultaneously, the total amperage draw is 39.23 and that's without the TV, hair dryer, 12 volt converter, etc. Per the example, we ONLY have 30 amps of incoming power supply, yet we're drawing 39.23 total amps. This equates to a low voltage situation and low voltage translates to heat. Heat buildup is what triggers circuit breakers to trip folks and it's going to happen in this situation!
The moral of this story is, don't overload your power supply!!! It not only damages your on board systems, it is a potentially dangerous situation since the possibility of fire is present. Don't operate heavy amp draw appliances simultaneously such as the microwave and air conditioner. Also, changing the water heater over to gas operation will also help to reduce the load and stop worrying ... you won't blow the camping budget on propane gas just because you heat your water with it! Besides, gas water heaters recover faster and provide hotter water than electrical systems anyway.
One final piece of advice ... Even though you own a cute little adaptor, which allows you to plug your RV shore line into a standard "house-type" outlet, you need to keep in mind that these outlets typically deliver only 15 to 20 amps. Obviously, the math gets even more critical here, since 15 amps is not even sufficient to meet the needs of the air conditioner!! Oh and one more thing ... excessively long drop cords, especially undersized ones add to the resistance load to your unit and just like low voltage, resistance equals heat!! Don't run your air conditioner or other heavy draw appliances unless you're connected to a full 30 or 50 amp power supply!!
Servicing Your RV's Rubber Roof
The rubber roof that is present on most recreational vehicles provides an excellent barrier against water, insects and other outside forces. This membrane (either TPO or EPDM) is typically glued to the roof substrate and is sealed at all of the roof openings (i.e. vents, air conditioners, etc.) using high grade and waterproof silicon sealants.
One should think of and treat this membrane in the same way that one regards and cares for the skin on the human body. It should be kept clean, moisturized and quickly repaired in the event of an injury such as cracks or tears. The two major enemies of any recreational vehicle is water. These protective "skins" are extremely important in the never-ending battle to keep the liquid stuff (not to mention creepy crawlies) on the OUTSIDE of your camper.
Basic Maintenence
As I noted above, the roof membrane should be kept clean, free of debris and moisturized. It is not necessary to clean the roof as often as the camper itself is washed, however, it is a good idea to inspect it at each washing and take whatever action is appropriate at the time. At least yearly (preferrably every 6 months) the roof should be cleaned thoroughly with a good quality cleaner/conditioner such as Thetford's Rubber Roof Cleaner/Conditioner. This product provides the proper cleaning strength to remove most of the dirt and stains on the roof, as well as the moisturizers and UV protection to keep your rubber roof supple and able to withstand the elements.
Detailed Maintenance
In addition to cleaning and moisturizing the roof membrane, it should be inspected thoroughly on a yearly basis for tears in the roof and/or cracks along the seam lines. UV rays from the sun tend to break down caulk seams and roof vent covers. we recommend resealing the roof seams at least annually with a good quality rubber roof sealer such as Kool Seal rubber roof coating and replacing the plastic vent covers every other year. Prolonged exposure to the sun will cause the plastic resins to break down and, eventually, the vent covers will simply crumble, leaving you with a wet bed at a minumum and structural damage in the worst case.
All of the products mentioned here are available at our retail store or can be ordered and delivered to you via our online catalog. Access our catalog by clicking the link below.
Finally, do not attempt "do it yourself" roof repairs unless you are extremely proficient in performing these repairs. Your roof stands between you and much of the great out doors. Treat it with the degree of importance that it deserves and it will serve you well for many, many years!
Build your own inexpensive, but effective, leveling ramps for travel trailers or fifth wheels
We've all been there ... you back into the campsite ... disconnect the unit from the tow vehicle ... level things up front to back, using the front jack(s) and drop the stabilizers ... only to discover that the unit is two bubbles out of level from side to side. Common sense (and your user's manual) tells you that your RV will function better and last longer if it is set up nice and level in both directions. Therein lies the rub. Unless you own one of the more expensive motor coaches, your unit came with no built in method of establishing a level East to West set up.
While several commercial products are available to address this need, I have yet to see one that tops the performance of this little home-made ramp. If you are minimally handy (and all RV'ers should at least be minimally handy) you can construct this simple device to ensure a nice level set up at the campsite.
Materials Needed
1 - 10 foot, untreated (I'll explain later) 2" x 10"
12 - 1-1/2" Dry Wall Screws
Good Quality Waterproof Paint
Construction
Cut the first piece to 3 1/2 feet long, with a 45 degree bevel at one end. Cut the second piece to 2 1/2 feet long, again with a 45 degree bevel at one end and cut the third piece to 1 1/2 feet long and bevel one end to 45 degrees.
Stack the 2 1/2 foot piece on top of the 3 1/2 foot base, line up the sides and the butt ends and attach using 8 drywall screws spaced two across and evenly distributed (make sure the screws are countersunk into the piece to avoid tire damage). Stack the 1 1/2 foot top ramp at the top of the stack, line up the sides and the butt ends and attach with 4 drywall screws, again, countersunk. Sand thoroughly to remove any splintered surfaces and protect with a good quality waterproof paint.
Properly constructed and with reasonable care, this ramp will last a lifetime.
Note: I do not recommend using treated lumber to build your ramp. Treated lumber is soaked in arsenic or other hazardous preservatives to slow decay and/or discourage infestation by termites and carpenter ants. These preservatives are poisonous and are not safe for use around small children or pets. Also, treated lumber tends to be heavier than untreated stocks and does not provide a good surface for the adherance of paint. Also, many RV'ers build these ramps out of 2" x 6" stock. While this works OK and is a bit lighter, the 10" stock provides a more stable base and allows for support across the entire width of the tire. Refer to your owner's manual, but most manufacturers recommend that the entire width of the tire be supported when leveling to avoid tread separation or sidewall damage.
To use your ramps, position the unit at the optimal location and, while still connected to the tow vehicle, check the East/West level by placing a torpedo level across the floor at the entry door. After determining which side needs to be raised, move the unit forward or back far enough to accommodate the ramp. Place the ramp behind or in front of the wheel to be raised and roll the unit up onto the first platform. Re-check the level and, if needed, move to the second or third level.
I often get the question "what if I need to go higher than the top level?" The top of the ramp is 4 1/2" high. If this doesn't get you pretty close to level, Bucky, you don't need a taller ramp ... you need a better campsite!!
Winterizing Your RV
We're all familiar with that time of year. The weather turns cooler and Winter is just around the proverbial corner. My wife breaks out her fleece TV comforter and even yours truly has to migrate toward clothing of a somewhat warmer variety. The leaves are beautiful (funny how they aren't so pretty as we're raking them into piles isn't it?), the mornings are crisp and the evenings are becoming downright chilly. Yeppers, old man Winter is just around the corner and he's taking dead aim at your beloved RV.
Unless you're one of those intrepid RVers who loves having coffee under the awning when it's 25 degrees outside, you're probably going to want to winterize your unit to prevent the interior waterwooks from performing the dance of the fountains come next Spring. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this task, air pressure or antifreeze. Either one can be tricky unless you know what you're doing, so work out your winterization with fear and trembling!
Method 1. Air Pressure
The first step in this process is to completely drain your water heater's tank. Remove the plug at the bottom of the water heater (outside of course), open the pressure relief valve and stand back. You'll get a real gusher when you release the vaccuum on the tank and, speaking from direct experience, wet feet are bad enough ... wet, COLD feet is a miserable combination!
After the water heater is empty, replace the plug and close off the pressure relief valve. Attach a bicycle air fitting (available at your friendly, neighborhood Jody's RV Store or at jodysrv.com) at the city water inlet for use in admitting compressed air into the system. Open each faucet in the camper and blow the water out of the lines using an air compressor or air tank. When no more water exits each open faucet, move on to the next area and repeat. By the way, this is a good opportunity to bond with a friend or family member! Regardless of whether or not you actually bond with your helper of choice, it sure beats the heck out of running in and out of the RV to pump air or operate faucets!
Don't forget your toilet!!!!
The toilet flush valve will be the very first thing to freeze in intensely cold weather since it retains a small reservoir of water after each flush. Spend extra time on this to be sure that you've removed as much water as possible from the flush valve. Prop it open or have your helper hold it in the flush position and throw the air to it until NO water exits the orifice.
Method 2. Non-Toxic Antifreeze
This method is what most manufacturers recommend. Essentially, you bypass the water heater so that no antifreeze is pulled into the tank (6 -10 gallons of antifreeze ain't cheap ya'll!), then draw non-toxic antifreeze (also available at Jody's RV) into the water systems. Your owner's manual has full instructions as to how to accomplish this task but my best advice is to bring your unit to us here at Jody's and let the pros do it for you. Our service department has the tools and the know how and we'll make sure that you're all set to weather the deep freeze. Besides, it's late in the camping season and the guys are starting to twiddle their collective thumbs. Remember, Only YOU can prevent deadly boredomitis technicianicus. Please do your part and keep our techies busy and contented!!
We will soon be currently offering our winterization special at a mere $49.95.
Think that's too pricey? Just wait until next Spring when you have to bring your unit in to replace all of the lines and fittings that blew out in January. Bet you're rethinking that $49.95 now, huh?
Care of your on-board batteries
Auxillary and engine batteries are not always maintenance free as they are in the newer types of automobiles. Water levels and state of charge are critical in freezing conditions. A discharged battery will freeze, resulting in potential splitting of the case, rendering the battery useless. Poorly maintained, defective and poorly charged auxillary batteries can and do cause many problems, including:
1. Improper functioning of furnaces
2. LP Leak Detectors will not allow LP gas to flow to applicances
3. Refrigerator may not cool properly or not at all
In order to avoid these problems, the following precautions should be taken:
1. Turn off LP leak detectors when storing the unit. These devices present a constant draw on the battery and will drain the energy in a very short time.
2. Electric steps should be turned off when storing the vehicle.
3. Some refrigerators draw battery power even when turned off, particularly those equipped with High Humidity settings. This function needs to be turned off or set to "Storage" position to avoid battery draw.
4. If so equipped, use the battery disconnects whenever the vehicle is stored.
5. Check the water levels frequently! Auxillary batteries are NOT included in the vehicle warranty. Most batteries carry their own warranties, which are only in force for a limited time.
Finally, keep in mind that batteries contain hazardous materials such as acids and lead and should be disposed of in a proper manner. Also, be careful when handling batteries as they emit explosive gases. Never service a battery in the presence of an open flame or other ignition source.
Take good care of your batteries and you'll have fewer problems with your electrical systems!
Things to watch for when using your side-mount Awning System
Close your eyes and picture it!! It's a beautiful, clear, Summer morning at the campground. the birds are singing and you've just filled your favorite old coffee mug to the rim with piping hot joe. The sun has just crept over the horizon and you can literally watch the day shake itself loose from the pre-dawn grayness that has enveloped it for the last 10 or so hours. You head outside to enjoy that first cup of coffee in the shade of your side-mounted awning. You pull up a chair and watch the dew drip from the fringe of the awning fabric while you enjoy that first sip.
Hey, wait a minute!! I hope you're not telling me that you left that awning out all night are you? If so, I certainly hope that you anchored the thing down with some good heavy duty tie-down straps and anchor pins!! If not, you're just plain lucky that no storms blew in during the night and ripped your trusty awning to shreds. Worse yet, it could have rolled your whole camper 90 degrees and you might have found yourself sleeping on the hookup side wall with your alarm clock ticking happily away on your chest!!!
RV awnings are fantastic options for extending the living space of your camper into the great outdoors. However, one must keep in mind that, to a gust of wind, they look and act like a huge para-sail! Adding insult to injury, the things are not inexpensive to replace. The average camper awning can cost anywhere from $500 to upwards of $2,500 depending on your particular brand, model or accessories.
Look, let's just cover a few points that might just save you a lot of hassle and moolah should an un-forecast storm arise.
let's establish some basic ground rules.
1. NEVER leave your awning extended if there is any chance that a heavy wind storm could arise unless the roller tube at the front is tied down with heavy duty anchor straps. Even with these straps, the wind can rip the awning right off of the camper. My recommendation is simple ... if it might storm ... put the awning down.
2. NEVER leave your awning extended when you're not going to be in the immediate vicinity for any extended period of time. Storms are unpredictable and can pop up before you know it.
3. Even when properly tied down, ALWAYS leave one end of the awning a few inches lower than the other so that the water has a place to run off. I recommend doing this on the side that is farthest from the main entry door. Even though your awning LOOKS like it might shed water over the fringe ok, rest assured, it will NOT! The fabric will stretch to allow the first quart or so to stand. Then as more rain falls, it stretches to accommodate gallon then 10 gallons then ... you get the picture. Ya'll ... water weighs 8.33 lbs per US gallon!! 50 gallons weighs an amazing 416.5 lbs and will literally tear the arms off of your camper if it can't find a way off.
Don't be afraid to use your awning. Just use some common sense and you'll save yourself some serious dollars and hassle.
